At 9 pm in Sant Antoni the sun sits in the sea and hundreds of people fall silent. The sundowner is the only bar hour nobody needs a dress code for.
The term sundowner comes from the British colonies: the drink you had when the sun went down and work ended. Today it is a ritual every city celebrates differently. Ibiza invented the soundtrack, Berlin the parking deck, Hamburg the Elbe beach.
Ibiza: Café del Mar
Since 1980 Café del Mar has played to the sun, and the music has travelled the world on millions of CDs. The terrace is expensive, the wall beside it is free, the view is the same. If you like it louder, go next door to Café Mambo; if you like it quieter, to Experimental Beach on the salt flats.
Berlin: Klunkerkranich
The parking deck of the Neukölln Arcaden is Berlin's answer to Ibiza: pallets, planters, a beer, the whole city out to the television tower. The Klunkerkranich takes no reservations but has a queue at the lift from 7 pm in summer.
Hamburg: Elbe beach
The Strandperle in Övelgönne is a kiosk, not a beach club, and that is exactly why it is Germany's best sundowner: bottled beer, feet in the sand, container ships in the evening light. Closed in rain, full in sun.
Mallorca and Marbella
The Sky Bar at the Hostal Cuba in Palma looks across the harbour to the cathedral; Playa Padre in Marbella has a band for the sun. Both are full, both are worth it, both need a seat an hour in advance.
What to drink
The sundowner is not a strong drink. Aperol Spritz, Hugo, a cold beer, a glass of rosé, a Paloma. The Old Fashioned comes later. And the rule that applies everywhere: order the second drink only when the city lights are on.
Frequently asked questions
What is a sundowner?
The drink at sunset, originally from the British colonies, today a ritual in beach clubs, on rooftops and on beaches.
When does the sun set on Ibiza?
Around 9.20 pm in June, around 8.10 pm in September. Be there an hour earlier.
