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Bar culture

Speakeasy: why hidden bars change the night

· 6 minutes read

A door without a sign, a doorbell, a look through the peephole. The speakeasy is the bar you have to know, and that is exactly why it works.

The name comes from American Prohibition: between 1920 and 1933 alcohol was banned, and in the illegal bars people spoke quietly, speak easy, so nobody noticed. When the bar Milk & Honey opened behind an unmarked door in New York in 1999, necessity became a style. Since then every city has had its hidden bar.

What makes the speakeasy different

The trick is not the door but what it does. If you have to ring, you come on purpose. If you wait, you are patient. Once inside, you have made a decision. Speakeasies therefore have a different crowd from street-level bars: fewer walk-ins, less noise, more attention for the glass. In Berlin, Buck and Breck turned this into a rule: fourteen seats, one table, no standing.

The best doors in Europe

In Barcelona a refrigerator door in a pastrami shop leads into Paradiso, the best bar in the world in 2022. In Frankfurt the Kinly Bar sits behind an inconspicuous door in the station district; in Vienna you ring at Tür 7 in the Josefstadt. All three have one thing in common: nobody hands you a menu, they ask you a question.

How to get in

Ring, wait, do not push. If it is full you are given a time, and it is usually right. Groups of more than four have it hard, couples and single guests easy. Reservations are now possible almost everywhere, often only by email or phone. Book and you skip the game with the doorbell, but you miss half the charm.

What to order

Speakeasies are bars without a menu or with a very short one. The bartender asks about three things: spirit, direction (fresh, strong, bitter, sweet) and occasion. From that comes a drink that is on no menu. Once you have experienced it, you never order from a list again. A classic as a test is always allowed: an Old Fashioned shows in thirty seconds whether the bar knows its craft.

The rules

No flash photos, no phone calls, no rounds for the whole table that block the bartender for ten minutes. Tips are welcome, volume is not. And anyone who posts a speakeasy on social media with address and door has not understood it.

Frequently asked questions

What is a speakeasy?

A bar without a visible sign, often with a doorbell, a code or a hidden door. The name comes from American Prohibition.

Can you book a speakeasy?

Usually yes, by email or phone. Without a reservation the doorbell and the number of free seats decide.